WELCOME TO THE

Uncovering Dressmakers Project

Our Aim

We are an independent research project building a digital database featuring objects, ephemera, and archival documents linked to 19th Century dressmakers, contributed by partner institutions all over the world.

Embark with us on our journey to uncover lost dressmakers.

Follow Along

Timeline

Keep track of the project's progress with this timeline.

We will update it as we complete each stage.

Funding

Current Stage

We are laying the project's foundation. We've formed a constituted group, started acquiring match funding, and are submitting applications to our key funding bodies. We are also sharing the project with the community and beginnning collaborations that will help shape the direction of our work.

Development

During this stage we will build the structure and appearance of the database. This includes defining metadata, designing user experience, building the site's core functionality. These decisions will shape how people will search, explore, and connect with the makers we uncover.

Launch

This is when the database will become publicly accessible. Researchers, curators, and the wider community will be able to learn more about 19th century dressmakers and the garments they made. While this marks the main outcome milestone, content gathering and collaboration will continue as the project grows beyond its initial launch.

Collaboration

This stage will happen alongside Development. We will form partnerships with researchers, collections, and institutions. We will gather historical material, secure usage rights, and set up long-term collaborations. This will be a careful process that will help to ensure content is detailed and well-contextualised within the growing database.

Refinement

During the beta phase a test version of the database will be shared with a small group of users. Their feedback wil help us refine the design and functionality. Data collection will contue during this stage, allowing us to grow the database while improving the user experience.

Stay in the Loop

video description: close up video of steps in the dressmaking process including measuring and marking on fabric with chalk.

Dinner dress in black satin designed by Mrs. Arnold in Brooklyn c. 1894-1896.

Waist tape in petersham reads “Mrs. Arnold, 169 Clinton St., B-klyn”

@metmuseum
Object Number: 2009.300.643a, b

#uncoveringdressmakers #nineteenthcenturyfashion #19thcentury #19thcenturyfashion #metmuseum #dresshistory #womenshistory #forgottenhistory #fashionhistory

Just a few of our favourite reference books! We love these for their photo references and detailed research.

Comment below what’s on your dress history bookshelf 📚

#dresshistory #fashionhistory #19thcenturyfashion #fashionresearch #uncoveringdressmakers

Over the next couple of weeks we want to share a few projects that we love and that we have looked to for inspiration when deciding how our database will function!

Layers of London is a fantastic project with its unique resources and mapping functionality. We hope to incorporate a map into our project to help visualize the spaces our makers occupied.

Check out Layers of London for loads of information about London’s social histories!

#layersoflondon #research #mapping #socialhistory #database #womenshistory #forgottenhistory #heritagefund

Thank you to everyone who registered to our website! Excited to keep you in the loop with the project’s progress!🧵

Bodice from the @johnbrightcollection

#uncoveringdressmakers #dresshistory #fashionhistory #dressmakers #womenshistory #forgottenhistory #museumcatalogue

Our co-founder, Steph, has authored an amazing article for the @vamuseum, uncovering female artisans in the 19th century through fashion plates. Give it a read, link in bio!

Fashion Plates from @vamuseum
1) By Anaïs Toudouze, published in Le Follet, 1850, E.2951-1888
2) By Heloïse Leloir, published in L’Iris-Journal de Mode et d’Arts, 1852, E.22396:386-1957
3) By Laure Noël, published in Musée des Familles, 1858, E.4348-1914

#fashionplates #femaleartisans #nineteenthcentury #nineteenthcenturyfashion #dresshistory #dresshistorycollections #womenshistory

Swipe to see one of our favourite labels from the @johnbrightcollection🧵Printed and handwritten label inside a two piece day suit, made by dressmaker A.Phillips, c.1910.

#uncoveringdressmakers #dresshistory #fashionhistory #1910sfashion #early20thcenturyfashion #dressmakers #museumcollection

Jacket and dress, both designed by the dressmaker Kate Reily. The jacket is from the @johnbrightcollection and the dress from the @vamuseum. Our database will connect collections and research through dressmakers. We can’t wait to build individual dressmaker pages!

Kate Reily was a British dressmaker active in the nineteenth and early twentieth century. From 11-12 Dover Street in London, Reily designed dresses for notable wealthy clientele. Madeleine Vionnet began her design career as a dress fitter for Reily in the late nineteenth century.

#dresshistory #fashionhistory #uncoveringdressmakers #nineteenthcenturyfashion #womenshistory

Fit for a Dollar Princess!

This dress was designed in Paris by Sara Mayer & A. Morhanger c.1889-1892. Worn by one of the Rogers sisters, Cara or Anne, the daughters of a wealthy American industrialist. The sisters were ‘Dollar Princesses’, heiresses who came to Britain with significant financial capital hoping to marry into the British aristocracy. The ‘Dollar Princesses’ and the garments they wore infused a certain amount of glamour into late 19th century society. Extensive research has been done on Dollar Princesses, but our project hopes to explore the makers who dressed them.

For more info, the @vamuseum has loads of research about this dress! Object number: T.270&A-1972

Waist tape ‘PARIS / Sara Mayer & A. Morhange / 5, Rue du Helder’

#uncoveringdressmakers #nineteenthcentury #nineteenthcenturyfashion #dressmakers #dresshistory #fashionhistory #womenshistory #dollarprincess

Made by the Misses Marns, this 1890s bodice of ribbed silk trimmed with woven floral silk satin is a favourite. The exaggerated sleeves, bow at center back, and lace cuffs were fashionable designs of the time.

Stamped in gold on a cream waist tape “Misses Marns, Dress and Mantle Makers, 45 Bramwell St. Sunderland”

From the @johnbrightcollection
Object number: 1965.3155

#dresshistory #nineteenthcentury #nineteenthcenturyfashion #19thcenturyfashion #uncoveringdressmakers #1890sfashion #fashionhistory #databasebuilding

Fashion Plates from the fashion magazine “The Milliner & The Dressmaker”, a popular 19th Century publication showcasing the latest fashions. Capturing fashionable styles of the times was important for dressmakers as garments were often tailor made for individual customers.

From @vamuseum

1) 1875-1878, by Jules David and A. Bodin, printed by Lefevre.
Object number E.2647-1888

2. 1870s by Jules David and Bonnard, printed by Lefevre.
Object Number E.2646-1888

3. June 1871, unknown artist
Object Number E.2500-1888

#nineteenthcenturyfashion #fashionplates #nineteenthcentury #uncoveringdressmakers #forgottenhistory #womenshistory #dressmaker #fashionhistory #dresshistory

A stunning silk dress with delightful floral designs ca. 1878-1880.

Designed by Mme. Martin Decalf, a French dressmaker, who was active ca. 1875–1881. Mme. Decalf’s shop was located at 83 Rue Lafayette, Paris as written on the dress’s waist tape.

From @metmuseum
Object number: 46.88.1

#nineteenthcenturyfashion #nineteenthcentury #uncoveringdressmakers #forgottenhistory #womenshistory #dressmaker #fashionhistory #dresshistory

You’ve been asking!
What’s our location scope?

The database will map dressmakers according to the addresses on waist tapes. We want to show the relationships between objects and their physical spaces, as well as relating dressmakers to one another with locations. This mapping will also help us understand how businesses and dress makers interacted with one another.

The project will begin with European or ‘Western’ fashions, including an examination of colonialist ties. This is because our scope is defined by our focus on 19th century waist tapes. Examples here include garments made in London, Paris, Glasgow, and New York. However, we hope that once the foundation for the database is in place, we will be able expand the scope of our project to uncover dressmakers all over the world.

1: Day dress of grey wool, 1890-1900.
Moore & Taggart, Co. Cross, Glasgow
John Bright Collection: 2020.17.A-B

2: Silk Bodice, c. 1895.
L.Guiquin, New York
V&A Museum: T.271&A-1972

3: Bodice of dyed chiffon, early 1910s.
Segal, Paris
John Bright Collection: 1965.2778

4: Afternoon dress, 1879-1881.
Halling, Pearce, and Stone, London
V&A Museum: T.238&A-1916

#dresshistory #dresshistorian #dressinmuseums #nineteenthcentury #nineteenthcenturyfashion #uncoveringdressmakers #dressmaker #fashionhistory

Meet Annie Lloyd, our Communications Director!

I’m the person behind the Uncovering Dressmakers social media. I’m from California and now live in London. As an assistant curator of the John Bright Collection at Cosprop, I get to combine my Masters in Dress and Textile Histories and my background in film and theatre costume. In both costume and historical dress, I am most passionate about storytelling through dress so I am excited to help illuminate the stories of these 19th century makers.

Item I’m most excited to add to the database: Day bodice of black silk chiffon with cream bobbin lace, made by Doucet. c.1900-1905. From the @johnbrightcollection

Stamped onto waist tape: ‘Doucet, 21 Rue de la Paix, Paris’

Meet Madeline Snowden, our Project Coordinator!

I’m a lifelong Torontonian and currently work for Toronto History Museums at two 19th century Historic sites. Before this, I completed my Masters in Dress & Textile Histories. While on work placement at Glasgow Museums I was introduced to the lack of historical record of most 19th century dressmakers. This led me to extensively research forgotten court dressmaker Madame Hayward and ignited my desire to uncover the hidden histories of more 19th century makers, artisans, and businesswomen.

Item I’m most excited to put on the database: Postcards of Marie Tempest from 1908 wearing a costume made by Madame Hayward.

#dresshistorian #fashionhistory #womenshistory #dressmaker #nineteenthcenturyfashion #nineteenthcentury #museumcollection

Meet Steph Haire, our Co-Founder!

I’m a London-based textile historian and embroiderer, currently employed by the V&A’s Collections Management department as a cataloguer of historic acquisitions. I have a Masters in Dress & Textile Histories which allowed me to explore my interests in nineteenth-century textiles, emotional objects, and the work of female makers. I’m passionate about making research and collections accessible, and in particular highlighting the important work of forgotten artists and craftswomen.

Item most excited to put on the database:
Evening dress, M. E. Humble, ca. 1901, English. Pale blue satin with metal thread embroidery from the @vamuseum

Object number: T.33-1945

#dresshistory #fashionhistory #nineteenthcentury #19thcenturyfashion #womenshistory #dressmaker

Meet Sage Foley, our Co-Founder!

I am originally from Colorado but currently based in London where I am an Assistant Collection Curator at Cosprop, a film costume house. In my role I get to combine the knowledge I gained from my Masters in Dress & Textile Histories with nearly a decade of hands-on experience in wardrobe and costume making. With a background in film and theatre, I am especially interested in how garments carry meaning, not just in how they were worn, but who made them and how that person developed their craft.

Item I’m most excited to put on the database: Evening bodice of orange silk, c.1885-1890. From @johnbrightcollection

Stamped in gold on waist tape - ‘Mrs Bird, York Place, Portman Square W.’

One of our goals is to map the physical locations that these dressmakers occupied.

To illustrate the effect that mapping can have, we traced the location of 19th century dressmakers in London using a few waist tapes in the @johnbrightcollection

This Ladies Dress Association waist tape reads “70-71 Jermyn Street. London.”

The building was purchased by the renowned London retailer, Turnbull and Asser, in 1903 and is still open today.

We will also use ephemera such as newspapers, ads, magazines, and post office records, to solidify the dates that a company occupied a certain address.

Meet the team!

We want to introduce ourselves. The four of us met at the University of Glasgow while studying for our masters in Dress and Textile Histories. Our combined passions for dressmaking, fashion history, and research inspired us to create the Uncovering Dressmakers project. We are excited to build both the database and our network of dress history researchers!

We will introduce ourselves individually next week!

x
Steph, Sage, Annie and Maddie

Pictured with one of our future research contributors, Zara!

Let’s talk scope!

What’s our timeline? Around 1850 to 1919.

Because our focus is maker’s labels inside garments, the database coverage will start in the mid 19th century when we see waist tapes appear as a form of marketing for dressmakers. In the 1910s mass manufacturing and warehouse production overtook the model of independent dress makers as we knew it in the 19th century. There are also already amazing sources for 20th century labels, such as the label archives held by Vintage Fashion Guild and the Fashion Conservatory. Of course, as the project grows, there is a chance we will expand the scope!

Swipe to see how styles change from the beginning to the end of our timeline.

Silk dinner dress by Madame Elise, c.1855-1859. @vamuseum Object number: C.I.69.14.9a, b

Purple silk chiffon evening dress, worn by Queen Alexandra, made by Doeuillet, c.1910.
@fashion_museum_bath

Our co-founders Steph and Sage will be presenting at the @dresshistorians New Research conference next Thursday.

Last November, we presented our project publicly for the first time at the London and Middlesex Archeological Society’s Fashion History Conference. The excitement from the attendees confirmed that we would have the support of the community moving forward with the project.

Hello to our new followers!

Here is a short clip we made to introduce the Uncovering Dressmakers Project. We are a team of independent researchers aiming to build an online database that centralizes the histories of dressmakers. The site will explore the forgotten histories of dressmakers in the 19th century by connecting collections, researchers, and images. We plan to create a tool in which dressmaker’s careers can be linked through timelines, objects, ephemera, and other materials.

Check for updates here while we apply for funding and start building the site!

Image sources in the comments. #dresshistory #nineteenthcenturydress #fashionhistory #uncoveringdressmakers #nineteenthcenturyfashion #dressmakers #womenshistory

Happy Met Gala Monday! Here are a few of our favourite evening dresses from the 19th century. Let’s celebrate the incredible designers, makers, and artistry throughout dress history!

From the collections at @metcostumeinstitute and @vamuseum

1: Maison Pingat, c.1864, @metmuseum
2: Madame Elise, c. 1875, @metmuseum
3: Stern Brothers, c.1894, @vamuseum
4: Worth, c.1897, @vamuseum
5: Wechsler & Abraham, c.1880, @metmuseum

#metgala #eveningdress #dresshistory #uncoveringdressmakers #nineteenthcenturydress #fashionhistory

Day dress circa 1896-1899, designed by the Fox sisters in New York. The combination of satin and wool, along with the bold detailed lapels, reflect the high style of the time. The Fox sisters were exclusive designers who focused on couture workmanship.

Waist tape woven into petersham reads: “Fox/New York”

@metmuseum
Object Number: 2009.300.833a, b

#dresshistory #fashionhistory #nineteenthcentury #nineteenthcenturydress #uncoveringdressmakers #couturedesign #womenshistory

Silk evening dress designed by the French house, Rouff c. 1897. Housed at the @metcostumeinstitute

The design house was active 1844-1914 and was known for its use of lace and detailed embroidery. The woven label, not pictured, reads ‘Rouff/13. Bd Haussmann/Paris’

Object number: 2009.300.332a, b

Designed in Paris by Maison Vignon, this 1860s magenta silk day dress was most likely dyed with the new synthetic dyes of the late 1850s. Maison Vignon was active from the 1860s to 1880s, with clients such as Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III of France.

The waist tape of the dress is stamped in gold with the maker’s label.

Dress comprising of bodice, skirt and peplum, c. 1869–70.

Object Number: T.118 to D-1979

#fashionhistory #dresshistory #1860sdress #nineteenthcenturyfashion #syntheticdyes #parisfashion #uncoveringdressmakers

This nineteenth century dress made by Madame Elise in 1880 is in the style of an eighteenth century open robe with petticoat. Madame Elise paid homage to the frequent use of fresh flowers in eighteenth-century dress with a spray of red silk flowers. The design reflects the eighteenth-century revival in France and England popular at this time. @metmuseum

The waist tape reads “by special appointment, Dressmaker to H.R.H. the Princess of Wales/Elise, 170 Regent Street, London.”

Object Number: 1998.253.2a, b

#uncoveringdressmakers #nineteenthcenturydress #fashionhistory #dressmakers #dresshistory #metmuseum

A beautiful black silk satin boned bodice with gigot sleeves, beaded mesh cuffs mounted on white satin, machine made lace, and jet beading. The bodice was made by Henriette et Marie between 1892-1894 in London.

From the @vamuseum Textiles and Fashion collection. T.85-1957

#uncoveringdressmakers #19thcenturyfashion #dresshistory #dressmakers #fashionhistory

We love to see a waist tape in a collection! Scroll to see the Madame Elise label from inside this gorgeous late 1870s dress. @metcostumeinstitute

Madame Elise was founded by Elizabeth (Elise) Marie Louise Jaeger (1836-1913). While on Regent Street, her shop became well known, gaining an appointment from the Princess of Wales Alexandra of Denmark, wife to King Edward VII. This appointment can be seen featured on many Elise labels. After the business was sold in 1884, Elise went on to write books and magazine articles about fashionable dress and textile craft.

@metmuseum Object number: C.I.69.14.4

#fashionhistory #dresshistory #museumcollections #uncoveringdressmakers #19thcentury #nineteenthcenturyfashion

Happy International Women’s Day! We want to celebrate women’s history and all of the incredible makers, businesswomen, and pioneers throughout fashion history.

There is very little published information about dressmakers that were active in the 19th century. The Uncovering Dressmakers Project is excited to create a space where recognition can be returned to 19th century dressmakers.

Image: Seamstresses c.1900
Photograph Collection, Minnesota Historical Society, St. Paul.

#internationalwomensday #womenshistorymonth #womensrights #IWD2025 #Fashionandpolitics #fashionhistory #dresshistory

Our researcher, @maddiesnowden has done a deep dive into the history of Madame Hayward, a 19th century court dressmaker of the late Victorian and Edwardian period.

Madame Hayward was first opened on Old Bond Street in 1884 by Augusta Mary Hayward with assistance from her husband Victor Stibel. They were first listed in the London Post Office Directory as a corset maker. By 1888 the label, which was now operating at 64 New Bond Street, had expanded into offering garments in addition to corsets. By 1892 Madame Hayward was now labelling themselves as a court dressmaker. This designation refers to a dressmaker that was capable of creating gowns suitable for the strict wardrobe expectations at royal events like balls and coronations.

In 1899 the business expanded to new locations on Bond Street, operating out of 67, 68 in addition to 64 New Bond Street. A court dressmaker designation in addition to the prestigious Bond Street address indicates that Madame Hayward was among the highest calibre of dressmakers operating in London during this period. Hayward’s success was rooted in creating quality bespoke garments, influenced by the latest Paris fashions, yet skillfully adapted to cater specially to British tastes and sartorial customs.

Maddie’s research and findings are a celebration of the contributions to fashion history that talented makers and businesswomen have made. This is the kind of information we hope to collect and share on the Uncovering Dressmakers database.

Image 1: Going away dress made by Madame Hayward for Elizabeth Kerr Holms-Kerr for her marriage in 1899. Image from © Glasgow Museums. ID Number E.1988.104.2.b

Image 2: Illustrations featured in The Queen magazine of new designs available at Madame Hayward’s from summer 1889. Image from The Queen, June 8, 1889.

Image 3: Only known depiction of Madame Hayward featured in a newspaper article about a court case Hayward was involved in from 1908. Image from the empire News & the Umpire, May 3, 1908.

Image 4: Photo of Madame Hayward’s Display at the 1908 Franco British exhibition. Image from Historic England.

Image 5: Madame Hayward label. Image from the John Bright collection.

First stop on our dressmakers tour! Madame Hayward, one of London’s incredible 19th century dressmakers, had her showroom at 67 and 68 New Bond Street from May 1899-Early 1936.

We can’t wait to share more about Madame Hayward from our amazing researcher! @maddiesnowden

Label: @johnbrightcollection

A day out exploring the addresses on waist tapes and labels from 19th Century dressmakers! We used Layers of London maps to visit the buildings where our dressmakers were located.

Waist tapes from @johnbrightcollection

Thank you for 200 followers! As makers ourselves, we are passionate about revealing the identities of dressmakers from the past. We can’t wait to share more with you!🪡

One of the objects that started it all! This glorious ca. 1903 evening dress was made by Mrs Humble at 19 Conduit Street, London. The striking metal thread embroidery is reminiscent of gowns by Worth, but the combination of fabrics suggests a creative and experimental dressmaker exploring her own ideas. We can’t wait for you to get to know her better!

Image courtesy @vamuseum T.34-1945

We are so excited to introduce The Uncovering Dressmakers Project! An accessible database is currently in development that will enable researchers to investigate and contribute to a visual evolution of style and the fashion system. Watch this space!

Photo credits:
@johnbrightcollection
@barbarakloos

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@uncovering.dressmakers